Bunyols de Vent
A recipe of Catalan Lent “wind donuts” brought by Sephardic Jews
This sweet treat is linked to the period of abstinence during the Christian tradition of Lent, though it was originally created in Spain by people who professed a different faith. Today, most people in the Iberian Peninsula aren't particularly religious—or not religious at all—yet many still partake in culinary traditions tied to sacred times. Bunyols (or buñuelos) are a good example of this.
For centuries, Spain was one of the most devoutly Catholic countries in the world, with infamous institutions like the Inquisition and renowned artists who depicted the dramatic suffering of martyrs. However, the region was also home to a rich blend of cultures and religions. Different Muslim groups thrived in parts of the Iberian Peninsula, leaving behind architectural marvels like the Mosque of Córdoba and the Alhambra palace in Granada. Jewish communities also flourished, contributing poets, philosophers, and historians to what we now know as Spain.
From the 1st to the 15th century, generations of Jews lived in the Iberian Peninsula, known as Sephardim, as "Sefarad" is the Hebrew term for the region. It seems that it was these communities who created this fried donut in the Late Middle Ages, originally as a symbol to commemorate Hanukkah.
“As a tribute to the small jar of oil used in the temple service that miraculously lasted for eight days, Jews developed a custom of eating foods fried in oil—Ashkenazim eat potato pancakes called latkes; in Israel, donuts called sufganyot are consumed; and Sephardic Jews enjoy bumuelos, fried dough drizzled in honey or topped with powdered sugar.”
Ty Alhadeff, Sephardic Studies Research, University of Washington
Similar to the Catholics, the preparation of sweet treats during religious celebrations was an important tradition for the Sephardic community. Their recipes often included flour, matzo bread, honey, sugar, and citrus peel. Some treats were baked, while others, like our bunyols, were fried in generous amounts of olive oil—just like the Lent-related torrijas. Torrijas are akin to French toast: slices of stale bread soaked in milk, beaten eggs, and sugar, then fried in oil. The Sephardim used to prepare them them to celebrate the birth of a child.
But coming back to our bunyols, buñuelos or bimuelos, we shall read what Gil Marks wrote in his Encyclopedia of Jewish Food:
During Lent, a time of fasting, indulgent sweets like these offered nourishment to get through long days of work. As such, Catholics adopted the bimuelos (bunyols) as their own. It also provided a perfect opportunity to use up surplus animal products during springtime, since the recipe calls for milk and eggs.
Bunyols can, in fact, be filled with crema (crème pâtissière), which makes them absolutely glorious and, once again, takes advantage of the abundance of springtime eggs. However, given the current egg shortage in the U.S., I’ve decided not to include this variation. You can read my last essay where I reflect about this in depth: On Seasonal Recipes.
Bunyols can also be savory, and as we are framed in the abstinece, the king of Quaresma is cod. Bunyols de Bacallà (cod fritters) are another tempting treat that's hard to resist. But we’ll keep it simple today, and stick to the basic recipe.
The bunyols I’m sharing with you today are filled with air—or vent (wind)—as they puff up and double in size once fried. After frying, they’re coated in sugar and devoured by the handful!
Ingredients
8.4 oz (250 ml) milk
1 stick (110 g) butter
5.3 oz (150 g) flour
1 tbsp sugar
Pinch of salt
3 eggs
1 peel of a lemon
Olive oil, to fry
Extra sugar, to coat
Instructions
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Servings: 4-6
In a medium pot, combine milk, 1 tbsp of sugar, a pinch of salt, and the lemon peel. Heat over medium-low heat until it reaches a gentle simmer.
Once simmering, turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the mixture infuse for 10 minutes.
After 10 minutes, remove the lemon peel and add the butter. Stir until the butter is fully melted.
Bring the milk mixture to a boil, then add the flour. Stir continuously with a wooden spoon or non-stick spatula for 2-3 minutes, until the dough forms and begins to pull away from the sides of the pot.
Remove the pot from the heat. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring well after each addition until fully incorporated into the dough.
Once the dough is ready, transfer it to a piping bag or have a spoon ready for later.
In a large, deep pan, heat a generous amount of olive oil over medium-high heat. Test the oil by dropping a small bit of dough into it—if it bubbles up and fries quickly, the oil is ready. If it bubbles slowly or takes too long, the oil is not hot enough.
Once the oil is hot, carefully add small dollops of dough into the pan, making sure to space them out to allow room for expansion. If you don't have a piping bag, you can use a spoon directly from the pot.
Fry the bunyols in batches, turning them occasionally to ensure they cook evenly and turn golden brown on all sides.
Once cooked, transfer the bunyols to a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil.
Prepare a bowl or plate with sugar and, while the bunyols are still hot, gently roll or shake them in the sugar to coat.
Serve warm and enjoy!
Bon profit!
Some tips + downloadable card
This is a very simple recipe but you need to be attentive to the steps, as the bunyols may not form correctly or burn if you are not paying attention.
If your piping bag doesn’t have a big enough oberture, you will end up making churros rather than round bunyols. It’s better then to grab a bit of dough with a spoon and let if fall onto the hot oil with the help of a knife or another spoon, so the shape is more ball-like.
Don’t worry too much if it’s not perfectly round, though. It’ll still be delicious!
One last tip is to coat them in sugar while they are still hot, otherwise the sugar won’t adhere to the fritters.
They are super addictive, so the servings may deppend on how many you are ok to share with others!
See the step by step video I created of the recipe. Bon Profit!
What kind of sauce pan did you use?
These look so delicious!